The Tale of Argentinian Malbec
When people talk of renowned wine-making regions, such as France or Italy, Argentina can often creep into the conversation- or, more specifically, the distinctly dark and full-bodied Malbec the country has become famous for.
As the fifth-largest producer of wine in the world, Argentina has certainly made a name for itself in the world of clinking glasses, pleasing connoisseurs and crowds alike. Owing to rich geographical diversity, the country boasts several regions suited to nurturing different varieties of grape, like Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and, obviously, Malbec.
1556 saw Argentina’s first vineyard, established in Santiago de Estero on the semi-arid Gran Chaco plains by priest Juan Cedrón, using Chilean vineyard cuttings. The industry slowly grew over the years, becoming centred in the western region of Cuyo where the desert-like, blue-skied summers and cool, cloudy winters favoured purple-blue grapes bursting with flavour.
A few hundred years later and seeing potential for an even bigger wine industry, the provincial government of Mendoza ordered French botanist Michel Aimé Pouget to bring new vines to Argentina from France. In Mendoza, Malbec vines were planted in Argentinian soil for the first time, cultivated by Pouget and the students at his newly-established Quinta Normal agricultural school.
The work of Pouget isn’t the only factor in Argentina’s role as a Malbec powerhouse. Only a decade after the first Argentinian Malbec vine was planted, a devastating phylloxera epidemic began to ravage vineyards across Europe. The epidemic was particularly destructive in France, where up to half of the country’s vineyards withered away in an era known as the ‘Great French Wine Blight’.
Where Malbec vines had previously flourished, the leaves began to yellow and wilt as plants slowly died, in turn, ending the livelihoods of many. Several prominent winemakers attempted to escape the devastation, with some bringing their skills and knowledge to Argentina, which thankfully remained relatively unscathed by the epidemic.
Malbec is - unsurprisingly- now the most widely planted red grape variety in Argentina, with production even surpassing the wine’s original homeland of France. A staggering 76,700 acres of Malbec grapes flourish across Mendoza, San Juan and Salta- for scale, this is around three times the size of Paris.
Growing amongst the flora and fauna found at the scenic foothills of the Andes, Malbec grapes thrive in the dry, sandy soil. Surrounded by rugged, snow-capped mountains, complex irrigation systems lead the mineral-rich melted snow of spring through a series of dams, canals and channels, revitalising summer-struck, barren land.
At an altitude ranging from 2000 to 3600 feet, the grapes receive plentiful sun during the day and cool winds throughout the night; whilst the extreme contrast in temperatures would be problematic for many crops, it comes at a benefit to Malbec grapes by slowing the ageing process, resulting in a rich wine with balanced levels of tannin (a component that gives some wines their sour tang) and sugars.
In Mendoza, where over 60% of Argentinian wine is produced, the combination of high altitude and low humidity creates an environment that common vineyard pests, such as aphids, struggle to survive in. As a result, viticulturists use little to no pesticides and organic Malbec can be made with ease.
Growing the grapes at a higher altitude also results in decreased size, alongside a thicker skin, creating a multilayered profile of complex, velvety flavours, with subtle hints of jammy red plum and blackberry, warm vanilla, sweet tobacco and rich cocoa. Being so fruity and smooth, Argentine Malbec rarely needs much oak-ageing and the delicate flavours are sometimes preferred without any oak-ageing at all.
Throughout the twists and turns of Malbec’s history, it has had clear ties to France. Being known as Auxerrois, Côt Noir, Noir de Pressac, the name that eventually stuck took after Sieur Malbek, a Frenchman who brought Malbec grapes from the gritty soil of Cahors in southern France to the Médoc region of Bordeaux.
Despite the obvious allegiance France has with Malbec, we’d argue that the wine has evolved to have an undeniably Argentinian charm; pairing perfectly with grilled or barbecued meats and blending harmoniously into the background of a hearty asado. Whether it’s a bottle of readily-available ‘table wine’ or something ultra-rare, expensive and artisan, if it’s Argentinian, it’s bound to be smooth, warm and delicious.
